The Heat was Sweltering, The Insects Were Huge, and I Loved Every Moment.

Upon arriving home I’ve encountered the numerous expected inquiries about my summer. “What was the best part of your trip?” “What did you learn the most about?” “What was it like?” etc. etc. How one begins to accurately and articulately describe the last eight weeks they’ve spent on the opposite side of the planet, is beyond me. When trying to respond, I remember the first day of our class on immigration migration. There were twenty-seven of us seated in a circle, including Dr. Steiner and graduate student, Reed Wood. Nothing for me had really changed since the orientation to this program. I was still fairly shy; still struggling to remember all of the names of my twenty-four peers; and still questioning why I was chosen along with these students to sit where I was sitting at that moment: in Singapore, that small island I knew so little about thousands of miles away from my home.
The one part of that day that sticks with me is our professor’s introductory speech to the course. Not really the entire speech itself, just a piece. “I am not here to be your chaperone. I am not here to babysit. I am here to help foster your intellectual development.” This is the response I’d like to give to anyone who has asked me how my summer has been; how exploring a fraction of the continent of Asia was. My mind has been expanded and my intellect is surely developing.
Honestly speaking, after this summer, I am a better thinker.
Most people think of the other side of the planet as such a strange and different place than we are used to. There is no doubt that Western media tends to exoticize the culture of the east; usually by portraying ourselves as progressive, and the east as “traditional.” During only the first few days of our stay in Southeast Asia it was clear that this representation was inaccurate. Throughout the summer it was emphasized just how much the mindsets of Singaporean and Thai citizens were shaped by the culture that surrounds them. However, in recognizing this, I’ve realized how the same goes for me and the American culture that surrounds my peers and me. This adventure has solidified how observing other cultures causes one to reflect and better understand their own; due to this summer my peers and I have become more culturally aware.
Talking with locals in Singapore and Thailand was the greatest teller of what made these cultures, and its people beautiful. From the chatter of Singlish to the detail of a smile across a Thai student’s face, there is no ignoring the uniqueness of these countries and their people. Amongst all of our cultural differences, the Singaporeans and Thai, and Francis too, have accepted us and our curiosity.Our great friend Yong during our Homestay.

On a lighter note, I also will not forget my SEAS family; MUIC and NUS students and faculty, Reed Wood, and the Steiner family included. It has been a pleasure to have lived and traveled with you for these past eight weeks. Not only has the region of Southeast Asia broadened my horizons, but this truly bright and kind-hearted group has greatly enhanced my experience here, which I didn’t think was possible.
Trip to AyutthayaBike trails in Malaysia!

All I can say is thank you to the region of Southeast Asia for allowing us young Americans a quick peek. Thank you for allowing us time with your most generous of members. Thank you for our long sweaty bicycle rides. Thank you for our new familiarity with squatters. Thank you for your flavorful meals. Thank you for your golden Buddhas that towered over us. Thank you for your children by the border. Thank you for your plentiful and vibrant gardens. Thank you for cooking classes. Thank you for your waterfalls. Thank you for your boats and skyscrapers. Thank you for letting us haggle in your markets, no matter how successful we were. Thank you for letting us touch your ruins. Thank you for your welcomes and farewells. Thank you for allowing us into your homes.Sweets in Little India.


Thank you SEAS ’09, for a beautiful and certainly unforgettable summer.

Home Away from Home

Home Away from Home

What an unforgettable summer! Eight weeks ago, I waved good-bye to my family, boarded on a plane, and flew half way around the world to finally see, with my own two eyes, places that I had only read about in books and had dreamed of going to, but much later down the road, perhaps after finishing up with school. The SEAS program convinced me to stop waiting until later, and helped me to realize one of many opportunities that are open for me now. As a result, I can’t say that I’m the same person from eight weeks ago. I have a greater curiosity and respect for other cultures, food, religion, people, and lifestyles. Not only has SEAS revealed a different outlook of the world and of life, but it has also opened up doors for me to interact with different people and experience a mixture of excitement, confusion, paranoia, and other feelings from being in a foreign country.

My time in Singapore and Thailand has been nothing shy of amazing, especially since I traveled with a diverse group of some of the most awesomely fun, bright, and energetic people I’ve ever met. I honestly think that I wouldn’t have gotten to know many of them, if it weren’t for this summer program. I am forever grateful for having had this amazing opportunity to see parts of the world that are, in some ways, different from mine, but in others, quite similar. Thailand is a much different place than the United States in that it is heavily influenced by Buddhism and built upon a constitutional monarchy. But I found, through my interaction with locals and MUIC students, that Thai people and Americans have quite a few similarities in values and interests. At our last farewell dinner, I saw how much we had grown together since day one of this trip. Everyone pitched in their efforts to make spring rolls, decorative fruits, green curry, Tom Yom soup, and Pad Thai, while sharing inside jokes and laughter. There was not only a close bond among the SEAS group, but also close ties between UNC students and MUIC students. The MUIC students had been so welcoming since the first day we had met them upon our arrival to Thailand. They had graciously guided us throughout our time in Thailand without holding our hands the whole time, but rather lending us a helping hand whenever we needed one. I will certainly miss all of them and hope that I might see them at UNC, as some of them expressed their interest in going to UNC.

Another thing I took away from this trip, aside from learning from and about my peers, instructors, and local people, was a greater understanding of this gray world that is far from perfect, which helped me gain a greater appreciation for the part of world in which I live and also think about how I, as a student and an individual of both the American and international community, can get involved in many of these difficult, complicated, and emotionally painful issues that we learned about in class. From Dr. Steiner’s class and outside-of-class activities, we learned a great deal about issues on refugees, legal and illegal migrant workers, and guest workers, especially in the context of Singapore and Thailand. These issues dealt with exploitation and abuse, separation of families, ineffective policies, and many more tough matters that didn’t have clear-cut solutions. Often times, I felt so confused that it was frustrating, but it made me think more deeply about problems in this world and also to discuss it with my peers not just in class, but also over lunch or when we get on an hour long bus ride. Visits to organizations such as the Transient Workers Count Too (TWC2), Thailand Burma Border Consortium (TBBC), UNHCR, and Tham Hin Police School, revealed the deep realities of these issues and gave me a chance to meet the people working for justice and human rights.

On Thursday, we visited the Tham Hin Police School near the Thai-Burmese border area. This police school enrolls Thai students as well as some refugee students generally from 1st through 6th grade. It’s not like a typical American school, because the classes are taught by qualified police officers and the students learn more about what they could do to survive and provide for their basic necessities. They learn more about growing agriculture and raising animals rather than how to do algebra or understand chemical reactions. The sweetest and most special moment of the day came when the kids stood in front of their school, smiling and waving at us until we were at a distance. On the same day, we had the pleasure of meeting Bola, a UNHCR field officer who gave us interesting insights in her field of study and how she was working on behalf of the refugees. Someone like Bola made me realize the potential that each of us can have in at least minimizing these problems and to really make this world a better place for all of us, using our positions and access to resources.

I’m writing this as I fly back home to the States. I’m so excited to see my family. I can’t wait to share with them every little detail about this trip from the places I visited to the people I’ve not only met, but got to know fairly well. Although I might have been away from my home for eight weeks, I pulled through at my temporary home in Singapore and Thailand with my one, big happy SEAS family. I think it is about time to go back home, but at the same, I can’t help but feel sad that all this is over, or perhaps this is just the beginning, as many of us want to visit Thailand again sometime in the future and also go beyond Thailand to other countries not just in Southeast Asia, but in Europe, Africa and other parts of the world. I’m quite pleased to have been the first experimental group to spend four weeks in Thailand. Every week in Thailand was a blast with trips to see the Grand Palace, temples, ancient ruins, museums, and all these places that taught us about Thai culture and history, and with non-stop shopping adventures that eventually turned most of us into shopping addicts or bargaining experts.

So, what’s next when I get back at home? I’ll definitely spend a lot of time with my family before I go back to school, and in my spare time, I’ll be thinking about this summer and everything that has happened so far. I’m still in amazement with what the SEAS program has provided for me. The study abroad program is one of those things that you have to do in order to truly understand its effects on the individual. Fortunately, I had gone on one of the best study abroad programs UNC could offer to a student. A great, big thank you to Alston and Barbara for funding this program and to all the people who have spent considerable time and thought into making this summer one of the best and memorable events in my life.

Because pictures are really worth more than a thousand words, I posted some of my favorite ones from our last week in Thailand below:



The SEAS Iron Chefs at work



This was taken at the Tham Hin Police School.



The SEAS and MUIC family



SEAS '09 rocks my socks!!!

-Lea

Because I knew you, I have been changed for good...

Our last few days in Thailand were jam-packed with things to do, see, and experience! We had a free day on Wednesday, and many of us spent it in Bangkok, trying to see as many things as possible. Thursday, we had a Thai cuisine and dining class, outlining many of the techniques used to prepare a traditional Thai meal. This was followed by a trip to the market, where we purchased the items needed to cook our own farewell dinner! Going to Thai market is always an interesting excursion. This particular trip involved live fish jumping out of bins, the chefs purchasing random desserts for us to try, and the students trying to decipher what they were eating. After the market, we came back to MUIC, where we assisted the chefs in making an AMAZING farewell dinner. Some of us chopped vegetables, fried egg rolls, prepared mango sticky rice, and mashed garlic. Somehow, with way too many cooks in the kitchen, we ended up with a fabulous meal to close our time together. However, the food was quickly overshadowed by our various efforts to say goodbye, through the Paper Plate Awards, a wai beauty pageant, and group pictures. Watching View and Obb do a catwalk is definitely one of the highlights of the trip. We had an absolutely fabulous time, just sitting, laughing, and talking together.




Wow. Our epic journey through Southeast Asia has come to an end. It’s hard to believe that just two months ago, we were all meeting in Hong Kong for our first group adventure! We have all grown and learned so much, both academically and otherwise. I believe that each of us has discovered something about ourselves, and we have been heavily influenced by this amazing opportunity. And though the program is over, for some of us, our travels continue. I’m heading off to China for ten days, Peter is off to Cambodia and Laos, and several people are spending the weekend in Hong Kong. For the rest of us, home is just a plane ride away. Even though we all are somewhat homesick and ready to return home, the last two months has impacted our lives in so many ways, many of which we do not yet recognize the significance. This program is extraordinary, and we have been forever changed by it. Thank you to all who helped put this trip together, for we will never forget SEAS 2009!

-Meghan

Winding to a Close

Our trip to Kanachanaburi has come and gone but this entry is about the time at Mahidol the week before our excursion. Our time is coming to a close but we’re making the most of every moment we have left in this beautiful country. This past week we have had plenty of free time to explore the city. After class on Wednesday we headed for Suan Lum, a night market in the city of Bangkok. The cab ride into the city was characteristic of traffic in Bangkok. Drivers weave through traffic with motorcyclists zipping in between the cars. Stop lights can last up to six minutes halting the flow of traffic for extended periods of time. Needless to say gridlock is common! Cab rides into the city from Mahidol are easy to obtain and cheap especially when you share the cab with others. It is nothing like a taxi ride in the States but they will get you where you need to go! There are a countless number of vendors and fantastic food in Suan Lum that it is quite easy to get lost in the environment. Our goal for the day was to secure (among many last minute gifts) these spectacular Thai boxing shorts for loved ones back home. Bargaining is an art and one girl in the group was able to negotiate the best possible price for a large selection of shorts for everyone. If you ever have the chance to get out to Suan Lum definitely go for it. After shopping for souvenirs and gifts head for the outdoor canteen. The food options are endless and you can eat under the stars while watching superb performances and listening to soothing music.

Of course we had to try on the shorts to test out our purchases!


Thai dancing was the activity scheduled for Thursday after our class with Dr. Copeland on the History of Thailand and Kevin Hewison, our guest lecturer. In traditional Thai dance there is heavy emphasis on hand movements. The movements are representative of various facets of Thai culture. One dance originated from the image of planting flowers, another mimics the elegant action of a girl applying powder. It is a partner dance performed in a circle with other couples. Two teachers of traditional Thai dance showed us three of their native dances. We watched and attempted their graceful motions. Each action holds meaning which is why the hand movements are intricate and difficult to grasp at times. Nonetheless, the experience and chance to learn this aspect of Thai culture was irreplaceable and we all had fun trying our hand at the art of Thai dance.


I am incredibly appreciative of this opportunity to explore Southeast Asia, thank you!

Morgan

Ratchaburi

(Photos courtesy of Peter)


The final section of our journey in Southeast Asia is quickly coming to an end, but instead of dwelling on all that we will miss, I know that our SEAS group will look towards the future with confidence about who we are and what we have learned. Last weekend’s excursions around Kanchanaburi and Ratchaburi were a contrast to the comfort we have become accustomed to at Mahidol. On Monday the 13th, we visited the floating market not far from Ratchaburi. Naturally, everyone was thrilled to put to use our developing bargaining and basic Thai language skills, so we spent time around the market talking to people and buying souvenirs for family and friends. Of course, it wouldn’t be a floating market without some boats involved, so some of us took a boat ride and marveled at all the fruits and goods that were sold on the canal. But what was most important about that visit was not what we saw there, but the difference we noticed in ourselves. Admittedly, the market was a tourist area, and it was clear that the people there expected little from us in terms of knowledge about Thai culture. However, our growth over this trip made us more than tourists and allowed us to experience more. For example, something as simple as saying “No Thank you” in Thai or properly doing a Wai elicited a smile and an acknowledgment that we were not your typical traveler.



Later that afternoon, the final group presentation summarized and elaborated on what they learned about refugees and asylum-seekers in Thailand. Our academic activity was complemented with a cultural one; we traveled to a museum and school to see a shadow puppet presentation. The amazing thing about the show was not the spectacle or the fact that it was students who were performing, but the narration. Even though it was completely in Thai, I felt I could understand the story because of the expression and raw emotion. Even though we have focused so much on the differences of being here in Thailand, I feel that, in the end, it is acknowledging our similarities that helps us to understand ourselves and how we fit into society.

-Lionel

TBBC

This week SEAS visited TBBC (Thailand Burma Border Consortium) and listened to a presentation about the organization itself and the situations that it deals with. TBBC is an NGO made up of several smaller organizations that helps to provide humanitarian aid for refugees in Thailand, namely those housed in the refugee camps along the Thai-Burmese border. TBBC has been my favorite organization that we have visited so far, especially since our presenter seemed so enthusiastic.
Her name is Sally Thompson and she is the Deputy Executive Director for TBBC. She has been working with the organization for years, and she had a lot of information to share with us about how the TBBC has grown and adapted to meet the needs of an increasing number of refugees that have fled Burma over the years.
Sally Thompson was knowledgeable and passionate about the objectives of her organization, and it showed in how animated she was about answering our questions and providing anecdotes to further illustrate them. She told us of her work with resettled Burmese refugees and their cultural difficulties in resettling. I especially found interesting her story about an extended family of several generations who all wanted to either be resettled together or not at all; this story just served to illustrate that there is no set family unit when it comes to resettlement. Some people resettle by themselves or with one other family member, or they may travel in large groups. She told us some heartbreaking stories of families prepared to resettle that have had to return when one family member became ill.
Even in addition to these compelling stories, we were given a good foundation for discussing the current situation in Burma and what organizations like TBBC and others are doing or should be doing in order to assist in providing refuge for the refugees produced by this conflict. One of the poignant and sensitive points that Sally Thompson touched upon was the question of how comfortable to make the camps for refugees. This question has since been discussed in our class on migration issues and nationalism. While the goal is to provide some place that is comfortable for these people that have been run out of their homes, there is also a need to ensure that these populations do not become dependent upon the aid that is provided. Thailand as a government tends to take the approach that the refugee camps should be made as temporary as possible, and Sally Thompson told us about the positive things that TBBC does to try and foster a level of independence in the Burmese communities in these camps. To provide one example, to supplement the minimal rations that camp residents are given every month, seeds are also distributed so that refugees can plant food. The seeds given are selected because of their sustainability. TBBC distributes seeds that will grow seeded plants so that the seeds of harvested crops can be replanted to provide a predictable source of food.
TBBC was more or less our introduction into topics of refugee issues. This visit to TBBC and the articles we have read provide an excellent jumping point from which to begin discussing some of the more sensitive questions regarding issues of humanitarian aid, politics, and asylum. All of the questions regarding migrant issues and nationalism that we have dealt with in class thus far have interested me, personally, and I am even more excited to now be digging into refugee issues and learning about what is being done by state and non-state actors to define what a refugee is and how to best aid them.
It is wonderful to be here in Southeast Asia and to be able to visit places like TBBC to learn about what real people are doing to deal with some of the things that we are learning about in class. When we are able to have conversations about migrant issues or nationalism with locals, government officials, and NGO employees, it really brings the material to life.
I honestly couldn’t be more grateful for having been granted this amazing opportunity, and I want to thank you to everyone who has made this possible for me!
--Aja

Lost in Translation...Found in Bangkok

Thailand has been an exhilarating and whirlwind experience thus far. The wonder in this trip has been in discovering a whole new world so culturally different from my own. Even amid the many language barriers and cultural differences there has been beauty to be found in every nook and cranny of Thailand.

On Friday we visited the Grand Palace which proved to be a feast for the eyes. We began our tour in the galleries, which had exquisite and intricate representations of the legends and history of the Ramakien. This same level of workmanship continued throughout the Palace in the elaborate and colorful mythical figures that lined the buildings and monasteries. It was even interesting to observe some of the western influences in the buildings in which later renovations had occurred. There were detailed frescoes on the ceilings and plush furniture imitating the royalty of European nations. The Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha was one of the most intriguing places in the Palace. Housing a solid jade Buddha, it is still used today to respect Lord Buddha and His Teachings.

Later, the group escaped the early afternoon heat in the cool air conditioning of the Siam Museum. It was a fun and quaint museum that had several interactive features. The short videos throughout that kept all of us engaged and tried to help elucidate the idea of a Thai identity that we have been studying in class.

After the museum a small group of us decided to visit China Town. This proved to be a mini adventure in the heart of Bangkok. Venturing to China Town by a short boat ride along the city, we landed on a street lined with markets. Going in further we were overwhelmed by the sounds, smells, and traffic that are Thailand. After walking around for a little while we decided to go to a mall in downtown Bangkok. Unfortunately we were unable to catch a taxi out. Thus began our trek through China Town in search of different means of transportation. We asked local shop owners and locals on the street and finally we found ourselves at our desired destination. A few in the group managed to flag down a taxi, while the rest persevered through the MRT ride and harrowing and crowded sky train. Yet thanks to the group’s determination and Lucy’s skills of map reading we somehow found ourselves at our destination.




After having had a long and hot day we enjoyed traditional Thai massages that helped us to relax and forget our tired muscles.

Such adventures make this trip an unforgettable experience. It is rewarding to see the rich culture and history embedded in all of Thailand. Our experiences here are reinforcing what we learn in class outside the classroom. I just want to thank Alston and Barb for the opportunity to have such a life changing trip with amazing sites to see and wonderful people who inspire me to be a more global and active citizen. Thank you!

Sathya

A Weekend to Remember

It is only the second week in Thailand and I have had two experiences I thought I could never imagine having: riding an elephant and bargaining at the Chartuchak weekend market. This weekend has been jam packed with fun, interesting, and engaging activities and events, beginning with a trip to Ayutthaya and ending with a shopping excursion in Bangkok.
One of the fun activities in Bangkok involved a visit to an elephant camp in Ayutthaya where we watched an entertaining show and rode the elephants around the camp. The talented and humorous elephants danced with their trainers spreading smiles and provoking laughter among the audience. Elephants, being one of the most intelligent species of the animal kingdom, showed its brilliance in its performance. The elephants seemed to have their own personalities, the eyes of the elephant alone mimicked happiness, delight, and curiosity. After watching the elephants perform we then mounted the elephants for an exciting ride. Morgan, my riding partner, and I rode the elephant around the camp. We took pictures of ourselves and others riding atop the majestic animals.
This Sunday we experienced the dream of every girl on the SEAS trip: shopping at the largest market in Thailand! We started early, whipping out our shopping lists, synchronizing watches, and getting in the mindset of a hardcore bargainer. We set out in small groups and rushed the market with determination and confidence. My failed attempts at bargaining at the night market only days before gave me the will power and fight to try again and to succeed! My fellow shopping warriors, Monique (the expert), Lea, Meghan, and Nicole, and I set out to find souvenirs for our friends and family. We Searched for everything from hand woven hand bags to silk pashminas. We typed figures into calculators, helped each other bargain, and made the most out of our shopping adventure. By 2:00 p.m. we had literally shopped until we dropped: we left the market tired, sweaty, and drained. But tiredness is definitely not the only thing we left with; we left that market with the smiles of accomplishment, the confidence of champions, and the weight of multiple bags filled with goodies and parcels!
The events of this weekend were absolutely unforgettable! Being in Thailand is so much fun, but I think we all missed home on the 4th of July. We promised each other that we would try to make a run to the hotel restaurant and eat some burger and fries and comfort each other on our Independence Day away from home, but we were in for an even better surprise. On our way back home from our trip to Ayutthaya Professor Steiner invited the whole group back to his home to celebrate the Fourth with his family. Of course we were all thrilled and excited and we immediately worked together to make our Fourth of July dinner as familiar and homey as possible. That night we devoured pepperoni and cheese pizza, potato chips, donuts, ice cream, and soda pop. We all joined in together to sing the Star Spangled Banner and the Alma Mater before turning in for the night. Celebrating the Fourth together, just when we were beginning to feel a little homesick, was the best part of this weekend by far. Feeling at home miles and miles away from our families, friends, and homes was the best gift I could have been given. Thank you to everyone making sure we were all comfortable and happy! And Thank You especially to Professor Steiner and his family for inviting us to his home and making us feel at home!

--Danielle G.

Bangkok and Muay Thai

Sawatdee Kah! We have only been in Thailand for six days, but we have had many great adventures so far with the wonderful Mahidol students that have helped us adjust to life here. We are having a great time here learning about Thai language and culture and getting involved on campus in various activities with Mahidol students. After class on Friday, a small group of us and a student we met here at Mahidol decided to take up some Muay Thai (Thai boxing) training at a gym near campus. We were very intimidated when we first arrived because there were really good boxers training in a real boxing ring. But there were incredible trainers there that helped us out a lot and taught us the basic moves.


On Saturday, we embarked on our first trip to Bangkok by splitting into three groups led by Mahidol students. My group went to Ko Kret, a small, beautiful island near Bangkok known for its hand-crafted pottery. We spent most of the day on the island exploring and admiring the pottery, but we also learned a lot about the transportation in Bangkok by taking trains, boats, taxis and buses to reach our destinations. At the end of the day, all of the groups met at Siam Paragon which is one of the largest shopping malls in Southeast Asia.





After an all-day excursion in busy Bangkok on Saturday, we had a shorter and more relaxed trip on Sunday to the Mahasawat canal. We rode a small boat along the canal, visited a lotus farm and bought locally made snacks, such as rice cakes with pork floss and dried jackfruit. We ate lunch at the Don Wai Riverside Market, which allowed us to experience a typical busy food market in Thailand. All of the food I have had in Thailand has been delicious and the wide variety of fresh produce available amazed me because there is always something new and exciting to try here.

Today, we had classes and had a picnic at Buddhamonthon park, one of the largest sacred places of Buddhism in Thailand with a huge Buddha statue in the center. Tomorrow, we have another exciting day because we are visiting the Thailand Burma Border Consortium to learn about refugees in Thailand, an issue we will be discussing in our class with Dr. Steiner.



There are so many friendly dogs wandering around freely in Thailand!

- Laura

Sawatdee ka!

We arrived in Thailand two days ago, and it is so different from the air conditioned nation of Singapore! Departing Singapore was both sad and exciting, as I knew Thailand would be both culturally and developmentally different from Singapore, and could not wait to experience Thailand for myself. As the airplane started to descend, we could see the clear blue water of the Thailand shores. Thailand is hotter than Singapore, probably because it lacks the constant air conditioning, and hasn’t been structured to be as shaded by giant trees as Singapore has been. The ride through Bangkok to the university was marked by various images lined by flowers of the royal family which were placed on overpasses of the roads.

The students here at Mahidol University are so friendly, as is our Thailand coordinator, Nita. On the first night of our arrival, we got to taste Thai food at our welcome dinner, which was both spicy and coconutty. We were given leis made with real flowers to welcome us, and watched a demonstration of Thai boxing. Mahidol’s hip hop team also performed for us, and it was fun to see how our culture of hip hop music and dance has travelled and is enjoyed worldwide. After the boxing and hip hop demonstrations, we were initiated as students of the university by walking through a path of candles and then kneeling down. As we knelt, Mahidol students tied white strings around our wrists with hot candle wax to stand for the pain and hardships we may have to encounter during our academic careers, and they wished us good luck in Thailand.

Our second day in Thailand, we were introduced to the Thai language and culture. I thought I would be at least a little prepared to learn Thai since Chinese, one of my majors, is also a tonal language, but Thai is quite different! Firstly, Thai has more tones than Chinese, and they sound a bit different as well. We were not taught how to read Thai, but we were taught how to pronounce certain words. The Thai lesson was really interesting, and we learned some survival phrases, which we were able to use later in the evening.

When dinner rolled around, it was definitely a new experience. We walked alongside various restaurants and food stalls, finding one which looked both safe and tasty. Looking around, I saw rows of food stalls all side by side offering various dishes, locals wai-ing each other, dogs laying on the street... quite a different view from Singapore, although a bit more like Malaysia. We finally decided on a stall in which the cooks were making fresh food outside on the spot. We could not read the menu, as it was in Thai. When the time came to order, we had to put our new and limited Thai skills to the test. We managed to convey that we wanted chicken fried rice, but since Nicole is vegetarian, and we did not have to vocabulary to convey that, it posed to be a bit of a problem. After many hand gestures, pointing to ingredients in the stall, and making use of a Thai language guidebook, we managed to order our meals. Although we hadn’t quite managed to convey what we had wanted…everyone BUT Nicole ended up with vegetarian fried rice, and she was served squid fried rice… It was still empowering to know that even though there is a language barrier, and we do not know much Thai, we will be able to learn a bit of Thai and are capable of getting food and such in a foreign country on our own. We even managed to get a bit of the Singapore food culture we had experienced here in Thailand, and found that the stall next door sold the Indian pulled tea, which was delicious!

I am very excited for the many activities which have been planned for us, as well as getting to explore some on my own! Tomorrow I am going to old Bangkok, and can’t wait to see what I will find.

~Andrea :)

“What we call the beginning is often the end"

What we call the beginning is often the end

And to make an end is to make a beginning.
The end is where we start from.
-T.S Eliot “Little Gidding”

Tonight, we, an odd mess of college students, bid farewell to the city that has housed us, entertained us, educated us, and for all intents and purposes, been our home for the past month. Singapore, the [mer]lion city, which welcomed us in as wide-eyed strangers, extended its hospitality through our final days, sending us away as friends.

And sending us away with friends. These last few days have been packed, as we made our lists and tried to squeeze in a museum here, a ride on the flyer there, that last unexplored food, our final papers (oh my!), and spend time with the people we met here. In class, we have been discussing what exactly is it that binds us to a place—is it the ideologies, the food, the very clean streets, or the language everyone speaks. Of course, it’s none and all of these things. Whatever causes us to love, to miss, to mourn a place is impossible to name or quantify without being made aware of one’s woefully inadequate control of language. Facing this problem, I asked a Singaporean what he wanted the world to know, if they could only know one thing about Singapore. His answer: “Singapore, like every other place in the world, is not about rules or government or gum (though perhaps those are the things you may hear about it), but about the people.” And as I reflected on my time in Singapore, I realized that the absolute best parts of the trip were the times spent with the people we met here.

When we ambled curiously through Little India, the History Museums, and the hawker centers, we were walking the routes that Singaporeans walk every day. When we ate stingray and chicken rice and durian we were tasting the foods that Singaporeans identify as childhood favorites. That is the joy of traveling, that you are stepping into someone else’s world (and at the same time broadening your own!).



And how many people have shown us Singapore through their eyes! From Dr. Quek who patiently introduced us to the idiosyncrasies of Singapore by sharing with us its short but rich history, to Dr. Emmanuel, who took us out to neighboring Malaysia and back again, showing us the differences and similarities between the two. Both of whom made a huge effort to teach us outside of class as well, answering our questions well after class had ended, showing us the best hawker stands, and even feeding us from time to time!




Our field research gave us the excuse to talk to local domestic workers and restaurant owners, Singaporean citizens and non-citizens alike, who gave us a variety of perspectives on daily life in Singapore-- sometimes joyful and sometimes sobering. Through them we were reminded of the diversity of life and living in every culture, in every nation.

Then, of course, there is Nadiah and Yong Min, our official and unofficial guides to a student’s life in Singapore. Nadiah not only ferried us through many a governmental agency and educational field trip, she was also there to take us shopping, tell us where to eat and what to see. She spent her free time teaching us Singlish (unsuccessfully) and taking us to movies or to ride the flyer, introducing us to Kaya toast (a gift from God) and Chendol (a somewhat less delightful treat). She even invited us into her home to eat a meal with her family.

Yong, who came to UNC for one semester before we even were there, showed up on the first day to greet us at the airport, and never disappeared after that. He miraculously appeared to help navigate the buses and city at night, showing us where the locals eat and which places are open late for the student’s late night cravings. On our last day, many of us went to the City Planning Museum to see the future of Singapore that Yong will have a stake in creating, as one of Singapore’s newest city planners. There, we saw both the future of the city we had grown to love, and the future of the person we had grown to love more.

“And to make an end is to make a beginning.” We have left Singapore. We know not if we shall return, but we do know that the end of our time here was just the beginning of our friendships here. We know that however intangible our feelings for Singapore may be, our feelings for the Singaporeans are very real. And secure in the knowledge, we embrace the new beginning awaiting us in Thailand.

-Sarah

“We shall not cease from exploration
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive where we started
And know the place for the first time.”

A Step Back in Time

Our time in Singapore has flown by, as it seems just yesterday that we arrived here not knowing what to expect. Throughout our time here, we have become accustomed to the rapid pace of life and high level of modernization that Singapore offers. However, this weekend we experienced a new side of Singapore that one does not see on a day to day basis.

Early Saturday morning we left for the island of Pulau Ubin, a short boat ride away from the main island of Singapore. As I stepped off the boat it felt like I was in a different country, with so much green and no skyscrapers or government housing blocks in sight. Pulau Ubin is apparently what Singapore was like in the 1960s, filled with kampongs, or villages, and not very industrialized. Although the area has been turned into an place primarily for tourist recreational activities, it was quite interesting to see the few shops and homes that remained. The whole group went bike riding around the island for the day, as we are all now very skilled at cycling after our journey through the jungles of Malaysia. The island was actually somewhat similar to Malaysia, with coconut palms, rubber plantations, and mangroves. It was definitely a very relaxing atmosphere, and I can understand why the locals come here when they want to get out of the busy city.


Hannah, Mary, Me, and Emily on the Boat to Pulau Ubin

After spending a peaceful day at Pulau Ubin, Mary and I wanted to see if any Kampong life still existed on mainland Singapore. Before coming to Singapore, we had both researched a village called, Kampong Lorong Buangkok. The articles we read stated that this was the last real village (nothing touristy about it) in Singapore and local families had owned the small homes for generations. The government wanted to demolish the homes to make space for more government housing units, as the land the kampong is on is very valuable due to Singapore’s small size. The Kampong was petitioning to keep their homes, but as of March, we did not know if the government had started to move in or not.



Sunday morning after one bus ride, traveling nearly a whole line on the subway, switching to the light rail, walking through HDB Flats, and taking a short cab ride, we finally found Kampong Lorong Buangkok. It really is a well hidden secret, which I guess is why all of the Singaporeans I asked about it did not know what I was talking about. It was a truly fascinating sight to see this small village right near hundreds of apartments and a row of wealthy private houses. We entered the Kampong and briefly spoke with a man sitting on his porch. He welcomed us to look around and when we asked him about the current construction situation, he said they were still unsure of what was going to happen. However, in the nearby areas around village we witnessed construction projects and machinery, demonstrating that this Kampong is probably next.


Pictures of in front of the Kampong



Afterward, Mary and I discussed how interesting it was that the government wants to demolish this small village in the name of progress and development. With Singapore wanting to nearly double its population in the future, I understand that space is very valuable and government housing does provide the opportunity for nearly every Singaporean to own a home. Nonetheless, it is sad that this unique heritage of Singapore many no longer last.

As we move onto Thailand in just a few days, I think it will be interesting to see the differences in preserving culture and heritage and its effect on Thai society, as I expect it to be very diverse from Singapore.

-Lucy

Saying Goodbye

Tomorrow is our last day here in Singapore, and we are all experiencing mixed emotions about leaving for Thailand. We’ve only been here four weeks, but in this short time Singapore has become like a second home to us. We have made some great friends here, like Nadiah and Yong, and it’s hard to believe that we may never see them again. We’ve also had an amazing time and made memories that we will certainly treasure forever.

Nadiah has been a great friend and has provided us with valuable insights into Singaporean life

Reflecting on the last four weeks, I realize how much we’ve learned about Singapore in the short time we’ve been here. Singapore is known for being a sterile, efficient metropolis, and as a result many travelers dismiss it as an uninteresting destination. This perception, we quickly realized, is completely inaccurate. Our program’s unique combination of intensive classes, structured tours, and free time made it easy for us to see beneath the city’s tranquil surface into the heart of Singapore.

Singapore is a city defined by its diversity. It is made up of people from a variety of ethnic groups, most notably Chinese, Malays, and Indians. Singapore also has tremendous religious diversity, with large numbers of Buddhists, Christians, Muslims, Taoists, and Hindus, among other religions. All of these people live together in harmony on the island, despite their tremendous religious and cultural differences. This makes Singapore a fascinating place to visit, and also provides a model for how diverse states can foster harmony between citizens.

Candles and incense being burned inside a Buddhist temple

A woman in Little India sells flowers, which are commonly used in Hindu ceremonies

The Sultan Mosque on Arab Street serves Singapore's Islamic population, which is made up of Muslims from around the world

Now, however, it is time for us to travel from diverse and cosmopolitan Singapore to another fascinating destination: Thailand. The last month of our lives has been incredibly eye-opening and has given us a greater understanding of the world and our role in it. Thailand will provide us with an even greater challenge and will further facilitate our personal development and the cultural awareness we hope to gain by spending the summer here in Southeast Asia.

Aja cries as she and Hanna say goodbye to Singapore.

Parting is such sweet sorrow.

-Steven